How to Measure Your Wrist and Watch for the Perfect Strap Fit

A bespoke leather strap is, by definition, made to your measurements. That is what separates it from an off-the-shelf strap that fits adequately. The difference between adequate and perfect is — almost entirely — a question of numbers. Get the numbers right and the strap fits the way a good piece of tailoring fits: as though it was made for you, because it was.

In ten years of making bespoke watch straps, the measurements I receive from clients range from precisely specified to vague approximations. Both are fine — I will always follow up if something needs clarifying — but understanding what each measurement means and why it matters will help you commission with confidence. It will also help you recognise, when you receive the strap, exactly what has been made for you.

This guide covers every measurement that goes into a Lombard Bespoke commission: lug width, strap length (both sides), taper, and buckle placement. I have also included a note on how these measurements interact with your choice of padding and strap style, because fit is not just about length and width.

The lug width is the most important measurement in the entire specification. It determines whether the strap fits your watch at all.

The lugs are the two projections on the watch case — one at 12 o'clock and one at 6 o'clock — between which the strap is secured by a springbar. The lug width is the internal distance between the two lugs at the point where the strap passes through, measured at the 6 o'clock end.

This measurement is almost always expressed in millimetres and is almost always an even number: 18mm, 20mm, 22mm. Odd measurements exist but are less common.

The most reliable method is to measure with a vernier calliper, placing the jaws inside the lug opening and measuring the distance between the inner faces. A steel rule can also work if you are careful to keep it level.

Most well-known watches have published lug widths — Rolex Submariner is 20mm, Omega Speedmaster is 20mm, IWC Big Pilot is 21mm, Panerai varies by reference. If you know your reference number, the lug width is almost certainly published in the specification.

A strap that is 0.5mm too wide will not fit between the lugs without forcing. A strap that is 0.5mm too narrow will fit, but will show a visible gap at the lug junction that looks wrong. I cut to the exact millimetre you specify. If you are unsure, measure.

For tapered straps — where the lug end is wider than the buckle end — the lug width refers to the wider end, and you will also need to specify the buckle width. More on that below.

A watch strap is not a single piece of leather of a single length. It is two pieces — or one piece folded — with a total length made up of two distinct halves that serve different purposes.

The buckle side is the piece of leather attached at the 6 o'clock end of the watch that holds the buckle at its far end. When you wear the watch, this side sits on the underside of your wrist, from the lug to the buckle.

The standard buckle-side length for most wrists is 75mm to 80mm, measured from the point where the leather meets the springbar hole to the end where the buckle is attached (not including the buckle itself).

The tail side is the longer piece of leather attached at the 12 o'clock end. When you wear the watch, this piece crosses the top of your wrist, passes through the buckle, and the excess extends toward your inner wrist.

The tail side contains the adjustment holes — the row of punched holes through which the buckle pin passes to secure the strap. Standard tail-side lengths range from 115mm to 130mm, measured from the springbar hole to the tip.

The adjustment holes are typically spaced at 5mm intervals, with five or six holes, so the strap accommodates a range of wrist sizes around your target fit.

Use a flexible tape measure or a strip of paper wrapped around your wrist at the position you typically wear your watch. Note the circumference.

A common error is measuring too tightly or too loosely. The strap should sit comfortably flat against your wrist — not cutting off circulation, but not loose enough to slide around. I find that most clients are best served by a strap that places the buckle pin at the middle adjustment hole when the watch is on at normal wearing tension. This gives you room to adjust in both directions as the leather beds in.

For most wrists, the total strap length — both sides combined, excluding the buckle — falls between 185mm and 210mm. But this varies considerably, and I work to your specific measurements.

If you are replacing a strap that currently fits well, the easiest approach is to measure your existing strap: buckle side from springbar hole to buckle attachment, and tail side from springbar hole to tip. Those measurements, replicated, will give you the same fit.

You can also look at the hole your buckle pin currently uses — this tells you where your wrist measurement falls within the adjustment range.

A tapered strap is wider at the lug end and narrows toward the buckle. Taper is an aesthetic choice, but it also affects how the strap wears under a shirt cuff — a narrower buckle end passes more easily under a dress shirt.

For a lug width of 20mm, a common taper runs to 18mm at the buckle end. This gives a subtle slimming effect that reads as elegant without being dramatic.

For more pronounced taper, 20mm to 16mm is popular on dress watches and vintage pieces, where the slim buckle end contributes to the overall refinement of the look.

For sport watches, padded straps, and rally styles, many clients prefer a minimal or no-taper specification — the same width at both ends — which gives a more assertive, uniform profile.

The taper width at the buckle end determines the buckle width. If your strap tapers to 18mm, your buckle should be 18mm. This is worth checking before commissioning, particularly if you are supplying your own buckle or have a specific buckle in mind.

Our Buckle Guide covers the available pin buckle styles, sizes, and finishes in detail. If you are using a deployant clasp, the measurement requirements are different and more complex — the commission form includes a dedicated section for deployant specifications.

Padding changes the physical dimension of the strap. A thickly padded strap at the lug end may not pass through the spring bars of a watch with tight lug clearance. This is not common — most watches accommodate medium and even thick padding without difficulty — but it is worth checking.

The relevant measurement is the clearance between the watch case back and the dial side of the lug opening. Most watches have generous clearance, but vintage pieces, models with exhibition casebacks, and watches with integrated lug designs can be more restrictive.

If you are unsure, photograph the lug area from the side and include the photo with your commission form. I will assess whether your chosen strap style is compatible.

Most watch straps consist of two layers of leather: the outer facing and the inner lining. The lining is typically a thinner, softer leather — often vegetable-tanned calf — that sits against your skin.

I use vegetable-tanned bovine leather in all linings at Lombard Bespoke. It is a natural, durable material that ages well and does not irritate the skin. The full-grain outer facings may be calfskin, ostrich, crocodile, or another leather from the catalogue.

The total thickness of the finished strap varies by construction. A flat strap typically finishes between 2.5mm and 3mm. A padded strap may finish between 3.5mm and 5.5mm depending on the padding specification.

Where the buckle pin holes are placed in the tail determines where on your wrist the buckle sits when the strap is on. This is more of a finishing detail than a primary measurement, but it is one that affects daily wearability.

On most straps, the middle hole is calibrated to your wrist measurement so that the pin sits at the centre of the adjustment range. This gives you two holes of adjustment either side — useful as the leather stretches and beds in over the first few weeks of wear.

If you have a specific preference for where the buckle falls on your wrist — closer to the watch, or further toward the inner wrist — you can specify this in the notes field of the commission form.

For a standard bespoke strap commission, I need the following:

1. Lug width (mm) — measured at the 6 o'clock lugs
2. Buckle-side length (mm) — from springbar hole to buckle attachment point
3. Tail-side length (mm) — from springbar hole to tip
4. Taper — lug width and buckle-end width (if different)
5. Buckle size (mm) — matches the taper/buckle-end width

For deployant clasps, additional measurements are required — see the commission form for the full deployant specification fields.

For padded straps, I also ask about the lug clearance if there is any doubt.

I will always query measurements that seem unusual before cutting leather. If an error only becomes apparent once the strap is made, I will work with you on a solution — this is one of the reasons I communicate throughout the process rather than just delivering a finished product.

Yes. If you give me your wrist circumference and your preferred buckle position, I can calculate appropriate strap lengths from those numbers.

Yes. I can cut to any whole-millimetre width. Some crocodile leathers have constraints around very narrow or unusual widths, but for calfskin, ostrich, and most other materials, any dimension within the standard range is possible.

For lug width, a steel rule and a steady eye will get you to within 0.5mm — which is usually sufficient. You can also visit a watchmaker or jeweller who will measure it for you in seconds. For strap length, a tailor's tape measure or a strip of paper works well.

Vegetable-tanned leather does stretch slightly over the first few weeks of wear, typically 2mm to 5mm in the tail-side length. I account for this in the hole positioning — placing the middle hole slightly tighter than your measured wrist so that the bedded-in fit is the one you actually want.

Every measurement you provide becomes a cut in the leather. That is what bespoke means — not approximate, not off-the-peg, but built to your watch and your wrist. The commission form takes about five minutes and I respond personally within 24 to 48 hours with a quote and any clarifying questions.

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