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Every stitch by hand
No machines. No shortcuts. Each stitch is placed individually using the traditional two-needle saddle stitch method.
Craft Notes
The Thread
The stitch that holds a strap together is also the stitch that defines its character. At Lombard Bespoke we offer three distinct threads — each sourced with intention, each suited to a different story.
Classic Polyester
PLThe Universal Standard
Sourced from premium local manufacturers & Italy
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Character
The polyester thread is our everyday workhorse — and by everyday, we mean the thread found on the majority of fine watch straps made worldwide. Its twisted filament construction gives it that characteristic slim profile and clean, slightly lustrous finish that catches studio light with a quiet refinement. When you look at a dress watch on a dark croc strap with a tone-on-tone stitch line, chances are it is this thread doing the work silently.
We source our polyester thread from premium manufacturers both locally in South Africa and from specialist suppliers in Italy, ensuring the colour palette is vivid, consistent, and fade-resistant over years of wear. With over thirty colour options available, it is the most versatile choice across all our leather types and strap styles.
Physical Characteristics
- —Twisted multi-filament construction
- —Fine, slim diameter
- —Smooth surface with a subtle sheen and gentle lustre
- —Vivid, consistent colour rendering
- —High durability and resistance to moisture
Suitability Guide
Use With Caution
- ×Rustic or vintage-inspired commissions where an old-world feel is desired
Waxed Linen — Fil Au Chinois
LNThe Old-World Traditionalist
Fil Au Chinois (Lin Câblé) — manufactured in France
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Character
There is a particular kind of strap that stops you. You pick it up and there is something about the stitching — it does not gleam, it does not call attention to itself, and yet it looks unmistakably deliberate. That quality almost always comes from linen thread.
We use exclusively Fil Au Chinois, also known as Lin Câblé — a premium, French-manufactured, cabled and waxed linen thread that has been the benchmark of fine leather-goods stitching for generations. The thread is made from natural linen fibres twisted together and treated with a wax coating that eases hand-stitching and bonds the stitch into the leather over time.
The result is completely matte. There is no sheen. The fibres have a natural warmth and slight texture that a synthetic thread simply cannot replicate. When you stitch a padded calf strap with ivory Fil Au Chinois, the result looks as though it belongs in a Parisian atelier circa 1960 — because in spirit, it does.
Physical Characteristics
- —Twisted natural linen fibre construction
- —Completely matte finish — zero sheen
- —Slightly organic, textured surface from natural fibres
- —Waxed for durability and needle-ease
- —Warm, handcrafted, traditional aesthetic
Suitability Guide
Use With Caution
- ×Heavily sporty or technical strap styles where maximum durability in wet conditions is paramount
- ×Straps requiring the brightest, most saturated colour expression — linen's matte surface softens tones slightly
Ritza Tiger — Braided Polyester
BTThe Bold Craftsman's Choice
Ritza Tiger Thread — manufactured in Germany
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Character
Ritza Tiger is a thread with a following. Among saddlers, leatherworkers and bootmakers worldwide, the name is synonymous with a certain bold honesty — thread that makes no attempt to disappear into the leather but instead announces itself as part of the design.
It is a braided polyester cord rather than a twisted thread. The construction is fundamentally different: individual filaments are braided into a flat, wide cord with a tight diagonal weave pattern that is visible to the naked eye and even more striking under macro photography. The surface is matte and slightly waxy — not slick, not shiny, but possessed of a quiet substance.
The practical result is that Ritza sits wider on the leather than either polyester or linen. A single row of Ritza stitching occupies more visual real estate than the alternatives, giving straps stitched in it a bold, artisanal confidence. It is not the right thread for a midnight crocodile dress strap worn with a tuxedo — but for a perforated rally strap on a vintage Heuer or a bund on a field watch, it is arguably the only honest choice.
Physical Characteristics
- —Tightly braided flat construction — noticeably wider than twisted threads
- —Completely matte with a slightly waxy feel
- —Distinct diagonal braid weave visible under magnification
- —Sits proud and wide on the leather, creating a bold visual stitch line
- —Exceptional strength — favoured by saddle makers
Suitability Guide
Use With Caution
- ×Dress watches and formal occasion straps where a slim, refined stitch line is required
- ×Fine crocodile straps where the thread width would overwhelm the scale of the scales
- ×Tonal or discreet stitching — the braid's texture and width draw the eye
A Note on Choice
"The right thread is rarely the most expensive one — it is the one that disappears into the intention of the strap."
When you commission a strap through Lombard Bespoke, we will advise on thread selection based on your leather choice, strap style, and the watch it will live on. The combination preview on our commission page lets you explore colour pairings — but the character of each thread goes beyond colour. If you are uncertain, ask. It is one of the most rewarding conversations in the process.